2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
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2019 - 2026
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According to Alec Seysses, 2008 required less sorting at the family domain than either 2007 or 2006, as the incidence of rot was minimized by the low crop loads and loose clusters. "With about 107 days of hang time, the phenolic ripening was better than the sugar ripening," Seysses told me. The fact that the estate vinified with a higher percentage of stems than in the previous two vintages is a good indication that they were confident about the levels of phenolic ripeness. Potential alcohols were in the 12% to 13% range, and most wines were chaptalized about half a degree. A few of the 2008s that went through malolactic fermentation especially late were de-acidified in July or August. My early look at this vintage suggests that it has yielded some extraordinary wines here. Seysses told me that the family was gentle with extraction in 2007 (the colors are paler than the 2008s), in part due to some rot issues, but he still wishes they had waited another three days to pick. (The Sorting Table, Napa, CA) Also recommended: Morey-Saint-Denis (86).
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This superb estate started picking pinot on August 28 in 2007, and then did a fairly short extraction, pressing the grapes quickly after just a week of fermentation to avoid getting hard tannins. The challenge in 2007, according to Jeremy Seysses, was to get enough good tannins in the wines. Not surprisingly, Seysses's favorite 2007s tend to be those that show the best structure. Grape sugars ranged from 11.5% up to 12.5%, "according to the hierarchy of vineyards," said Seysses, who noted that potential alcohol levels were higher, as well as more regular, in 2006. Incidentally, a number of the 2006s were showing their tannins when I tasted them in November and appear to be shutting down. But this is a superb vintage at Dujac. Seysses notes that the estate's clonal material tends to ripen early, which was more of an advantage in 2006 than in 2007.
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