2005 Pommard Vaumuriens

Yves Confuron described 2005 as "like 2002 in balance but with more maturity-almost Rhone-like, as in 2003." The wines are between 14% and 14.5% alcohol, and the malos were just about finished when I stopped by to taste. "The tannins and the alcohol will conserve the wines," said Confuron, who vinified 100% whole clusters and did a full 35 days of cuvaison. "With very little juice in the grapes, the fermentations went slowly," he reported. Confuron has bottled a couple of terrific 2004s, which he described as combining "the tight structure of 1988 and the aromatic richness of 1989." The key to the quality of 2004 was the low crop level and the multiple passes through the vines, he added. Still, he admitted, their tannins are less refined than those of the better wines from the Cote de Nuits in 2004. (Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY) Also recommended: Pommard Fremiers (85?).