1996 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru
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2023 - 2032
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1997 has produced soft, appealing wines, from low yields and concentrated, healthy fruit, says Pascal Marchand. The skins were ripe and mature, and Marchand did a stronger extraction to compensate for the vintage lighter structure. Following slow malos that ended last July, Marchand decided not to rack the wines prior to the '98 harvest, instead leaving them on their lees in a cold cellar until November, "to slow down the process." Marchand is happy with his new barrels from Michel Toutan. The staves are burned longer over a smaller fire, resulting in a more penetrating char but less heavyhanded surface toastiness. Marchand thus was able to increase the percentage of new oak in '97 without the risk of drying the wines' finishes. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)
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"1996 may not have brought the strongest raw materials," admits Pascal Marchand, "but it my best vintage yet." Indeed, the grapes were impeccable in '96, while the domain's '95 suffered from a bit of rot. More of the '95 fruit was crushed than usual, says Marchand, because the grapes from the table de trie went into the destemmer more slowly. Subsequently, there was less pigeage than usual during fermentation. Incidentally, Marchand did an experimental cuvee of younger Clos des Epeneaux vines in '96, vinifying with less maceration and at a lower fermentation temperature, then emptying the tank directly after the alcoholic finished (i.e., allowing no additional maceration). Tasted alongside the same vines vinified with the estate's more traditional stronger extraction, it was fruity and gentle but showed some green aromas and less Pommard structure. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)
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