1997 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru

1997 has produced soft, appealing wines, from low yields and concentrated, healthy fruit, says Pascal Marchand. The skins were ripe and mature, and Marchand did a stronger extraction to compensate for the vintage lighter structure. Following slow malos that ended last July, Marchand decided not to rack the wines prior to the '98 harvest, instead leaving them on their lees in a cold cellar until November, "to slow down the process." Marchand is happy with his new barrels from Michel Toutan. The staves are burned longer over a smaller fire, resulting in a more penetrating char but less heavyhanded surface toastiness. Marchand thus was able to increase the percentage of new oak in '97 without the risk of drying the wines' finishes. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; and Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA)