2015 Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places
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2023 - 2031
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Guillaume Clusel has been assuming a more prominent and visible presence at his family’s four-hectare domain (three and a half at Côte-Rôtie and a half at Condrieu) in recent years as he slowly takes the reins from his parents Brigitte and Gilbert, who built the estate up from a mere one hectare holding beginning in 1987. They were the first growers in the region to adopt biodynamic principles in their vineyards and over the last three decades have established themselves as one of the northern Rhône’s most respected producers. The wines here show plenty of fruit and polish, and they’re generally on the graceful side as Côte-Rôties go. That’s the case with all of their 2015s and even their top bottling, the Grandes Places, which from most other producers can be a real bruiser, shows an appealing finesse to go with its brawn that will allow for relatively early drinking.
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With Guillaume Clusel now handling more and more of the vineyard and winemaking responsibilities here, I've noticed a subtle change of style in the red wines in recent years. The Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôties have long been prized by their fans for their relatively light touch, but lately I've been seeing a bit more depth of flavor, with no loss of elegance, and the tannins seem to be even finer than in the past, even in the flagship Grandes Places bottling. Guillaume has his own domain, which specializes in Gamay, and I wonder if working with that variety has had an effect on his work with Syrah, because I definitely see even more graceful character in these wines now than in the past.
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