1998 Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places
France
Côte Rôtie
Northern Rhône
Red
Syrah/Shiraz
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The June 2 hailstorm in '99 decimated Les Grandes Places, at the northern end of the Cote-Rotie appellation, with the result that Gilbert Clusel and Brigitte Roch produced just two barrels of their top cuvee compared to a normal eight or ten. It by far the most promising wine I've ever sampled at this address, but it will not be easy to obtain in the marketplace. I normally find these wines rather lean for Cote-Rotie, no doubt due to Clusel's extreme reluctance to chaptalize; in some years, the finished wines don't reach 12% alcohol. But the '99 Grandes Places is an unprecedented 13.5%, with the wine retaining a normal pH. Basically, said Clusel, the vegetation was normal, but there was much less fruit to feed-just one or two clusters per vine. Clusel leaves very little lees with his wine and thus is able to keep the rackings to a minimum.
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Nineteen ninety-eight, says Gilbert Clusel, is a good but inconsistent year. "One feels the tannins and the structure," he notes. "The wines are a bit hard now but will round out." Yields were a bit lower in '98 than in '97. Clusel is extremely reluctant to chaptalize his wines: the '98 Grandes Places will be just 12.2% in bottle, unchaptalized, while the '97 was left at 11.8%. The '96s were the last wines to be fined at this estate.
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