2008 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

The Moreau family started harvesting on September 19 in 2009, with plenty of potential alcohol in the grapes. "We had perfect ripening conditions and very little disease pressure," noted Fabien Moreau. "A great August and a good September gave us a lot of natural maturity. In contrast, the sound sugar levels in 2008 were more from evaporation of water due to the north wind in September, which allowed the grapes to retain acidity. Still, even though we waited to pick in 2009, we had good acidity levels: better than in 2006, more like 2005. In sum, 2009 is a pleasant surprise." Incidentally, as at Louis Michel, 2008 was the first vintage here that was vinified entirely with wild yeasts. "We like the much longer fermentations," said Fabien. "Now they take seven to ten days to start and then build slowly."

Fabien Moreau considers 2008 to be a superb vintage for Chablis, as it combines the richness of 2006 and the minerality of 2007. "It's a little like 2002," he told me, "and more concentrated than 2007." The family harvested beginning on October 1, and Fabien vinified for the first time entirely with wild yeasts. There are no set rules for vinification or elevage here: the wines may be fermented in tank or wood (but never more than 2% new oak), and after they're blended following the malo, they are returned to a combination of tank and barrel according to Fabien's taste. Wines may be moved from tank to barrel, or vice-versa, at any time. While I certainly notice the oak element in some cuvees in the early going, my experience has been that this component harmonizes nicely with the wines after just a few years in the bottle, in many cases virtually disappearing. The keys to the steadily rising quality of these excellent wines is the family's superb holdings of old vines, and Fabien's ability to give each wine the treatment it requires. Incidentally, Christian Moreau told me he's enjoying the 2004s, 2003s and 2002s now. "I prefer to drink Chablis after six or seven years," he explained. "After ten years you risk losing the freshness and typicity of Chablis."