2006 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

The harvest of 2007 was a two-part affair at this family domain, with Christian and son Fabien Moreau bringing in their Vaillons on September 9 due to rot pressures, but then waiting until September 14 to attack the grand crus, which ultimately came in with potential sugar levels between 12.5% and 13% and were not chaptalized. The first blend was made in March, about two months later than usual, after which the wines were returned to a combination of tank and barrel. According to Christian Moreau, the new vintage possesses very good acidity (higher than the 2004s) and a lot of minerality. With the exception of the Vaudesir, which was replanted in 1998, all the vineyard holdings here have an average vine age of at least 40 years. Everything here is picked by hand. Interestingly, Fabien described his 2006s as fresher than the 2005s: "In 2005, the maturity came too quickly," he explained.

"The 2006s are similar to the '05s at the same stage," said Christian Moreau. "Both vintages have good acidity, but the acid levels are not like those of 10 or 15 years ago." Like a number of their colleagues in Chablis, Christian and Fabien Moreau make their wines in a combination of tank and barrel, matching the vinification and elevage to the needs of each parcel. Among the small but important improvements here in recent years is the care with which the various wines are tasted and tweaked during the winter after the harvest. Every barrel is tasted in January and the father-and-son team decide, among other things, which wines need to be moved out of wood and into tank, which barrels work best with which cru, and which barrel suppliers to eliminate for the next vintage. The Moreaus are also moving steadily toward the use of wild yeasts: for the first time, the 2007s will be fermented entirely with indigenous yeasts. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Previously recommended: 2005 Petit Chablis (85), 2005 Chablis (88), 2005 Chablis Vaillons (89), 2005 Chablis Vaillons Guy Moreau (90), 2005 Chablis Vaudesir (90), 2005 Chablis Blanchots (88+?), 2005 Chablis Valmur (91+?), 2005 Chablis Les Clos (92), 2005 Chablis Clos des Hospices (91+?).