2006 Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees
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Clavelier was one of several growers I visited in November who preferred 2006 to 2007. The wines have more structure, he said, and grape sugars were higher (12.5% to 13% in '06, vs. 11.8% to 12.7% in '07). The phenolic maturity was good in 2006, he went on, and definitely better than in 2004. Clavelier does not crush the grapes, and with a high percentage of old vines his smaller berries tend to release their sugars late. "I extract very gently by infusion, not by true pigeage," he said. I tasted all the 2006 samples from a combination of new and used barrels; the ultimate blends will be about one-third new oak.
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