2004 Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees
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"The 2005 vintage has all the elements," noted Bruno Clavelier. "There was a concentration of sugars with good acidity. It was an easy year for the growers, especially after 2004." Yields here rarely exceeded 35 hectoliters per hectare and there was no need for triage, added Clavelier, because the grapes had thick skins.
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Clavelier describes the 2004s as "accurate to their terroir, with good precision but lacking richness. We didn't see the sun in August. "Clavelier told me he started harvesting a few days later than his neighbors, following a lot of tasting of the grapes, then eliminated less-good fruit in the vines and on a table de trie. As is his normal practice, he did a long but gentle vinification, with gentle pigeage andup to a week of post-fermentation maceration. What he likes most of all about the '04s is their energy. In 2003, he told me, "in contrast, it's the polyphenols that will take the place of acidity and protect the wines. "Still, he added, it was necessary to pick early in 2003.
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