2010 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
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Two thousand ten is a consistently strong vintage due to the extent of the millerandage, said Cyprien Arlaud. "We're getting more millerandage in general in recent years, but 2010 was an extreme example," he added. "I haven't yet found any faults in the vintage except for the small size of the crop." He described the 2010s as an "excitation" (stimulating, a turn-on). The wines needed 10 to 12 days for the fermentations to start, despite the fact that Cyprien and his brother Romain use very little sulfur dioxide. The malos finished in May and June and none of the wines had been racked at the time of my visit. Yields here were in the low 30-hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2010, compared to 42 in '09 and 38 in '08. Incidentally, Arlaud only began working with vendange entier in 2008 but is rapidly increasing his use of whole clusters. He told me that he considers Clos Saint-Denis as his "archetype of class and subtlety" and is trying to bring his other wines up to the same level.
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