2006 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
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Cyprien Arlaud, who has recently taken over direction of the family domain from his father Herve, has added finesse to these wines, and improvement here has been rapid in the past few years. The 2005s are excellent, but the 2006s may be even better in the context of the vintage. The Arlauds have a new, more humid cellar (the first vintage made in it was 2004) in which they can work mostly by gravity and rack less than previously (the wine is only pumped to make the blend). The fruit is destemmed but not crushed and Cyprien carries out a long cuvaison, with very few pigeages; he believes this gentler approach produces more nuanced wines. "With whole grapes the fermentations usually take five to ten days to start, even without chilling the must too much," he told me. He admitted that 2006 was more his style than 2005 "if you drink it within ten years," as the grape sugars weren't too high to prevent him from using a bit of chaptalization to draw out the fermentation. "I prefer not to be in a hurry," he summarized. (A Peter Vezan selection; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA: and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86+?).
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