2008 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Following a drawn-out flowering, there were a lot of red vines from too much precipitation, according to Romain Arlaud. "Under those conditions the plants do not assimilate potassium from the soil, which is the opposite of hydric stress," said Arlaud, who wondered if this phenomenon protected the minerality of the wines in 2008. Two weeks of wind before the harvest concentrated the grapes by evaporation, and the potential alcohol levels were up to 13% for the grand crus, he added. But the estate lost up to 30% of its volume due to the wind and to the need to eliminate rotten grapes. The cuvaison was longer than normal, as the grapes came in cold and the wild-yeast fermentations took seven or eight days to start. (A Peter Vezan selection; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA; and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86). Other wines tasted: Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes.