2012 Pinot Noir Jack Hill Vineyard

Ross Cobb makes some of the most distinctive Pinot Noirs on the Sonoma Coast. The 2012s are a bit uneven across the board because of the reduction issues in some wines I wrote about last year. Additonal time in bottle has helped the reduction dissipate, which is, of course, a good sign, but the fruit in those wines remains a bit muted. The difference is striking where there are no reduction issues at all. The 2013s show less concentration and depth than the 2012s, and are also free of issues with reduction. Some of the 2013s taste like the fruit could have benefitted from more time on the vine without compromising Cobb's restrained style. Readers will not want to miss the new Chardonnay Mariani, which is terrific. Lastly, Cobb has moved on from his previous role as winemaker at Hirsch, and is now focused on his wines and those he makes for a handful of consulting clients, which is likely to be a big positive going forward.

Ross Cobb is one of the most introspective, thoughtful growers/winemakers on the Sonoma Coast. At their best, Cobb's wines possess extraordinary purity and finesse. The 2012s, though, are a bit of a mixed bag. Cobb generally prefers to pick on the early side. He then gives his Pinots more time in barrel than is customary in California, around 22 months, with minimal, if any racking. Cobb is not afraid to allow the wines to go into reduction in the cellar. While his hands-off approach and overall willingness to take risks is commendable, I can't help that at times these wines could have used a little more oxygenation during aging. Of course, it is entirely possible the wines will come together in bottle, so we will see. My own view is that, while Burgundy (red and white) can sometimes go into bottle with reduction with few long-term effects, the jury is still out when it comes to American wines. I am much more certain that the typical California Pinot drinker, even consumers with an interest in wines like these, is not likely to understand, much less accept reduction.