2022 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben

Naturally, the hailstorm on 13 September also dominated the narrative at Bründlmayer. Longstanding marketing and sales director Thomas Klinger held the tasting this year. He reported that the day following the storm, the affected areas were “emergency harvested. The hailstorm arrived on the third day of harvest,” he said. “All the Sekt base wines were already in, and despite hail nets, parts of Lamm and a marginal part of Käferberg were affected. Heiligenstein was not affected.” Before the storm, Klinger said, “The grapes looked like cherubim; it was all perfect. It was a warm but not hot year; the acid was milder, yet nothing to be concerned about. The alcohol levels were slightly higher than average, with beautiful expression of the grapes. Canopy and soil management were really in tune. There was no dry stress, not too much moisture, and, on average, it was a warm year; however, not to be compared to 2018, 2006 or 2003.” Then the damage came. Klinger explained that the hail nets do afford protection, just not where they touch the grape bunches. Depending on the direction and fierceness of the hail, some fruit was damaged, and these needed to be discarded. Any other non-net-protected grapes had to be harvested the following day to avoid cross-contamination from damaged grapes. “All of that had to be sorted out meticulously, and we lost 10-15%.” Good relations with an agrarian recruitment company in Burgenland meant they sent a crew over the following day. Hence, a total team of 70 people helped to harvest.” This agility saved the day. Klinger also notes two further things: despite all the risk management and prompt reactivity, the vineyard manager had “tears in his eyes” surveying the trail of the storm. By the same token, the experience, calm and perspective of Willy Bründlmayer, now in his early 70s, were a welcome balm for the entire team. Readers should note that in 2022, no Ried Spiegel was made. The grapes form a part of Alte Reben.