2011 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben

Willi Bründlmayer is one of Austria's most famous wine personalities. Tall and lanky, with an inner drive that is well concealed behind his laid-back, friendly manner, he has done much to raise the general public's appreciation of the Kamptal since he took over the family estate in 1981. Today, his son Vincent is also involved in day-to-day operations and even has his own vineyards--not that the estate needs more--to pursue his own ideas. Indeed, with 80 hectares of privileged sites, including 11 in the Heiligenstein alone, no producer in Austria owns more first-class vines. "Harmony" is the word Klinger repeats most often when describing his goal for his wines. That became easier to achieve in 2012 with the opening of a new cellar that drops 15 meters from top to bottom to facilitate more gentle handling of the grapes and wines. Beyond the grüner veltliners and rieslings that all would expect of an estate here, Bründlmayer also makes one of Austria's best sparkling wines and a cabernet franc of sometimes superb quality. I have often found it confusing, though, that he makes three rieslings labelled Heiligenstein, but his next goal is to assemble them and make only one. (www.bruendlmayer.at) Also recommended: Brut 2008 (88), Brut Rose (88), Extra Brut (89), 2012 Gruner Veltliner L&T (85), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen (86), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang (88), 2012 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen (87), 2012 Rose vom Zweigelt (85), 2011 Zweigelt Reserve (87), 2011 Pinot Noir Reserve (88), 2009 Pinot Noir Cecile (87), 2009 Cabernet Franc Vincent (89), 2006 Cabernet Franc Vincent (88).