2002 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben

Brundlmayer approached 2002 with his usual intention to let the vintage speak for itself, but also with some playful, experimental notions, such as shading the fruit a bit more from direct sunlight in the manner of "shade-grown" green teas.(Let's hope that's a technique he applied in 2003!)The upshot, for whatever reasons, is as exciting a collection as I have witnessed from these vines and hands.At the point in my tasting where the series of rieslings from Heiligenstein was poured, I thought "This is when things are supposed to get really interesting, but look at all the stars already on the table, even at the ostensibly low end of the line."I mentioned in last year's coverage the superb 2000 methode champenoise from this house, and the latest disgorgement ($42) is now in our markets.Also from 2000 and well worth tasting (preferably blind) is Brundlmayer's savory, spicy, nutty, floral pinot noir, Cuvee Cecile ($59).(Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2002 Muskateller.