2011 Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg

For many consumers, Bernhard Ott is the epitome not only of Wagram, but of grüner veltliner as well. He essentially makes nothing else--and so does not even write the variety on the front label, preferring names like Cask 4 or simply those of the vineyards. A farmer by dedication, he seldom travels, but receives his guests at the estate with the charm of a gargantuan gentleman who enjoys eating, drinking and good conversation. In fact, he is one of the few leading Austrian producers that I know who has never been to the United States. "I prefer being in the vines," he told me. Of stately build, with long hair that is beginning to turn grey and a pair of old wire-rim glasses halfway down his nose, he is hard to miss in a crowd. Although he claims to prefer wines "with less than 12.7% alcohol," most of his have the size of the man himself, and a number of them also sport a tad of residual sugar. Like Fritsch, he is a member of the ring of biodynamic producers called Respekt, disdains irrigation and makes a wine in amphoras that he named Quevre. In some years, he also makes a grüner veltliner that is reminiscent of an Alsatian Vendange Tardive, which he labels Tausend Rosen, or one thousand roses. It may never have the refreshing brightness of a riesling, but, as with the 2006, a suave maturity that also has a charm of its own. As a considerable proportion of the 250,000 bottles that he produces each vintage are exported, these are wines that are relatively easy to find.Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner am Berg (87), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Fass 4 (88), 2011 Gruner Veltliner Der Ott (88). (Terry Theise Estate Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com; The Age of Riesling, www.theageofriesling.com)