2005 Angélus
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé "A"
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot
00
2022 - 2035
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2020 - 2055
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This wine was tasted as part of our 2005 Bordeaux with Stephen Tanzer and Antonio Galloni event held in October, 2015.
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Hubert de Bouard, who is not normally a fan of late picking, harvested until October 12 in 2007 and seemed happiest with his cabernet franc from older vines. He did less extraction than usual, carrying out what he described as "a long but static maceration." For fans of this chateau, the outstanding 2005 will be a must purchase. Bouard feels it's his greatest and most complex vintage in 20 years, but noted that he also loves the '89, '90 and '00 Angelus.
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Terroir was critical in 2006," said Hubert de Bouard. "Having well-drained soils was essential, as was what you did in the vineyards, and when. For example, it was necessary to thin the fruit early." The merlot at Angelus was harvested from September 22 through 24 and the cabernet franc came in on the last three days of the month. Bouard told me that in early September, the grape seeds were ripe but the skins weren't. "This was the first time in 25 years I've seen this. As a result, we worked hard on extraction early in the fermentation, before we had much alcohol. We actually did long macerations but we stopped the punchdowns during the second half of the fermentation because we didn't want to work the skins too much and get bitter tannins." Incidentally, Bouard pointed out that 8 of the estate's 11 hectares of cabernet franc vines were planted in the ten years following World War II-in other words, before the brutal frost of 1956.
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The young 2005 here is a knockout, offering a combination of sheer intensity with inner-mouth floral complexity and suave tannins that I have never seen before from this property. Strict control of crop levels in conjunction with drought conditions resulted in very small berries in 2005, said maitre de chai Emmanuelle Fulchy d'Aligny, who added that even though the grapes had little juice, they were not dehydrated. Still, a bit of saignee was done in 2005 and the wine was vinified at slightly lower temperature than usual. The very high IPT of 85 was actually lower than that of the 2004 here, and the pH of 3.72 is in the low-healthy range for Angelus. Fulchy d'Aligny summarized: "It's the first time we have had this combination of concentration and freshness at this point of the wine's life. In fact, in 2005 the merlot had even more freshness than the cabernet franc." In April, the young Angelus shocked me with its sheer drinkability and class. I had expected to find a more obviously tannic and extracted wine, but there is nothing heavy or forced about it.
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