2005 Bordeaux with Tanzer & Galloni

It’s easy to miss the entrance. The street number is virtually completely hidden by scaffolding. Taped white paper notices on the glass door entrance give the impression of a construction site rather than one of New York’s most exclusive dining destinations. A freight elevator brings guests upstairs, and the door opens into David Bouley’s Test Kitchen, a world unto itself in New York City’s Tribeca district. The large loft space functions as both an open kitchen and a small private dining room that is ideal for private events. 

I had had many fabulous meals at the Test Kitchen, but this was our first Vinous event in this space. For the occasion, my colleague Steve Tanzer and I chose a dozen of our favorite 2005 Bordeaux for a retrospective tasting and dinner designed to highlight some of the best wines of this historic harvest at the ten-year mark, with an eye towards showcasing a diversity of styles and terroirs. The wines were loosely grouped in flights of two or three, mostly by theme, but the overall selection was largely about enjoying the best the vintage has to offer. Chef David Bouley created a special menu that highlighted the bounties of early fall.

Everything is ready to go in the Text Kitchen’s intimate dining room

Two thousand five is a magical vintage for Bordeaux. At the time, 2005 was one of the richest and most powerful vintages ever seen. The dry, warm season was tempered by a cool September that allowed the grapes to ripen gradually while retaining considerable freshness. Today, ten years later, the 2005s are just beginning to open up, something that comes as a surprise to a number of people in the room who expected the wines to be much more backward and closed. To be sure, this tasting and others around it make it clear the best 2005s will drink well for decades, but it is also not a crime to start dipping into some of these reds. All of the wines in this tasting were purchased upon release from Morrell’s and stored in a temperature-controlled cellar, which is so important when it comes to older wines. The bottles were opened around 5pm, checked for flaws, and gently double decanted to remove sediment. Wine Director Adrien Falcon and his team did a fabulous job with service, in particular, keeping the wines at the right temperature.

Reception

Chef’s Selection of Hors d’Oeuvres