Vinous Table, Italy: Center & South
The Corner Townhouse is one of the many recently born Rome restaurants that are popular with the “in” crowd, but The Corner has potential to stick around thanks to its inventive food, decent wine list and a beautiful dining room.
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
featured, Italy: Center & South
The baseline quality level of the Marche’s wines is among the highest in Italy, with few truly bad wines these days. There are noteworthy peaks too, including some of Italy’s most ageworthy whites (made with Verdicchio) and unique aromatic reds (from the Lacrima and Vernaccia Nera varieties).
Wine writing is a narrated voyage. It says as much about the writer as the wines they encounter en route.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
For my maiden “Cellar Favourite”, the obvious choices would be either Bordeaux or Burgundy because I am fortunate to drink a hell of a lot of old and rare bottles. But instead, I opted for a Northern Rhône that I drank before Christmas with friends at one of my favorite London restaurants, Chez Bruce. It was a BYO with serious bottles flying around to bid farewell returning to warming climes for the winter. I took a chance with the 1972 Cornas from Paul Jaboulet Ainé, partly because I had never encountered such a venerable Cornas. I was curious.
United States: New York, Vinous Table
There is something about the simplicity of a perfectly cooked bird that gets me every time. This recent dinner Le Coq Rico was one of the best meals I have had in New York City in a long time. A small group of friends gathered at the bar for front-row seats as we watched the action unfold in the kitchen in real time.
featured, United States: Oregon
Fueled by steadily increasing production of first-class Rieslings and Chardonnays, Oregon’s wineries are proving that they can do much more than just make great Pinot Noir.
Rare and unique, Malvasia di Bosa is an oxidative-style wine, like Sherry, but from Sardinia. Columbu estate, featured in Mondovino, is the top producer of Malvasia di Bosa. The estate’s Riserva is a wonderful aperitif and after dinner drink, but matches well with anything involving capers, smoked fish, honey, shellfish and olives.
France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
About ten years ago, I was served Méo-Camuzet’s 2000 Clos Vougeot at a lunch. I immediately went out and picked up six bottles. Since then, the wine has aged at a leisurely pace. Sweet, floral and aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the 2000 much of its sensual, gracious personality. Lithe and gracious, the 2000 is an unusually finessed, delicate Clos Vougeot, and yet all the elements are very much in the right place. Hints of kirsch, new oak rose petal, raspberry and white pepper add brightness throughout. Although not especially complex or structured, the 2000 is a wine of pure and total pleasure.
Italy, Vinous Table
San Marco is Venice’s most famous and beautiful square. Osteria Enoteca deserves similar amounts of praise, especially compared to dining establishments of the same ilk in the lagunar city. Well-made, non-touristy food, a great wine list and competent service are the ingredients that make Osteria Enoteca well worth a visit.