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Cellar Favorite: 2002 Quintarelli Veneto Rosso del Bepi

Italy: North, Cellar Favorites

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

In what he deemed to be poor vintages, or simply when the Amarone wasn’t up to his exacting standards, Giuseppe Quintarelli declassified his Amarone into the ‘Rosso del Bepi’ label.

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Vinous Table: Allen’s, Toronto, Canada

Vinous Table

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

For hearty food with flavorful twists, and interesting sweet-sour and boozy nuances, plus one of the best all-Canadian wine lists Toronto and Canada have to offer, run, don’t walk, over to Allen’s.

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Ornellaia & Masseto: 1995-2010 From Magnum

Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2017

David Bouley’s Test Kitchen was the setting for this remarkable retrospective featuring Ornellaia and Masseto across eight iconic vintages. All of the wines were served from magnum for what turned out to be a truly unforgettable evening.

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Miani’s Friulano Filip and Buri: 1991-2014

Italy: North, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

No other estate in Italy boasts a line-up of white wines as strong as Enzo Pontoni’s at Miani. His Friulano is the country’s greatest example of this wine. Magnificently deep, multilayered and unctuous, it offers a textbook example of Pontoni’s talent as well as a glimpse of the heights this variety can reach.

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Cellar Favorite: 1999 Stoney Ridge Gewürztraminer Icewine - Niagara Peninsula

Cellar Favorites, Rest of the World

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

My love for the wines of Stoney Ridge goes back a long way. Only the 18th licensed winery in the history of Ontario’s modern wine industry, Stoney Ridge made some of Canada’s most interesting and best wines in those early, almost pioneer-like days.

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Vinous Table: Restaurant Laurin, Bolzano, Italy

Vinous Table

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

Bolzano’s Parkhotel Laurin is not just the most prestigious and beautiful in the city but it also boasts the city’s most interesting restaurant. Rising star chef Manuel Astuto appears to have a great future ahead. A very good selection of fairly priced wines from Alto Adige and the rest of Italy makes dining here even more enjoyable.

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2015 Beaujolais Part 2: A Vintage of Richness and Energy

France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured

Josh Raynolds, Jan 2017

The last three vintages for Beaujolais have been a string of home runs, but 2015 is likely to be the one that delivers the greatest impact and pleasure for most wine lovers. Two thousand fifteen has plenty of candidates for wine of the year; wines that deliver concentration and energy, with opulent fruit character and the classic core of acidity that gives Beaujolais its trademark vivacity. These wines are also built to age but at the same time display an exuberance that makes many of them pretty irresistible now.

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Grower Spotlight: Dick Steltzner

United States: California, featured

Kelli White, Jan 2017

Dick Steltzner was born and raised in Piedmont, California – just outside of Oakland. His mother was a member of the extended Schilling family of Schilling spices (now McCormick). Although this particular branch of the family had effectively run through their fortune by the time Steltzner came along, the name still carried weight within San Francisco society, and they retained a handful of aristocratic tendencies, such as regular travel to Europe and the drinking of wine with dinner.

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Cellar Favorite: 1995 Castello di Ama Merlot L’Apparita

Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany

Ian D'Agata, Jan 2017

Vinous readers have come to know that I collect wines for the love of drinking them, meaning I often indulge in vintages that are less obvious choices than those that are more celebrated, but that produced, in some cases, outstanding wines. And so it is with Tuscany’s 1995 Castello di Ama Merlot L’Apparita, which is delicious and irresistible, even though it was made in a less heralded year.

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Vinous Table: Absinthe Brasserie & Bar - San Francisco

Vinous Table

Kelli White, Jan 2017

It really was by accident that I found myself eating at the bar at Absinthe in Hayes Valley a few weeks ago. Absinthe has been a staple of the neighborhood since it first opened in 1998. Both the interior and the menu are styled in the fashion of a French brasserie. Although the setting is darkly romantic, the penetrating nostalgia of both cuisine and scene make for a dining experience that is warmly comforting above all.