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Vinous Table: Zuni Café, San Francisco, CA

United States: California, Vinous Table

Antonio Galloni, May 2018

A San Francisco institution, Zuni Café has kept guests well fed since 1979, eons by the standards with which restaurants open and close in the United States. The cozy, two-story, rustic dining room is bustling with energy as we settle in for this mid-week lunch.

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Ten Wines That Changed My Life

United Kingdom, featured

Antonio Galloni, May 2018

“There is no budget,” was the reply from 67 Pall Mall when the London private club’s management asked me to choose wines for a recent master class. Over the years I have led many tastings, but this seminar was especially memorable. Most tastings are organized around themes of a vintage or producer, but for this masterclass we opted for a totally new concept suggested by Vinous co-founder James Forsyth: ten wines that had a personal significance in shaping my life in wine.

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Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety

featured, Germany

David Schildknecht, May 2018

In 2016, Mother Nature and Rheinhessen’s top growers seem to have made the same request of one another: “Cool it!” Happily, both complied. Without question, Rheinhessen growers have experienced two outstanding vintages in 2015 and 2016, but the latter boasts a surplus of wines that display the imponderable interplay of balance, elegance and charm, which to my palate give them a slight qualitative edge and an at least equal claim on cellar space.

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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights

featured, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, May 2018

One of Bordeaux’s greatest virtues is its ability to transcend time. Since its earliest days, Bordeaux’s natural inclination towards longevity coupled with crowd-pleasing volume has enabled devotees to build cellars and plunder mature vintages with almost wanton abandon. Enjoyment is derived not only from the quality of the wine, but also a sense of visceral experience of history and marvelling at the passage of time between insertion and extraction of cork...

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Turley Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard: 1993 – 2015

featured, United States: California

Stephen Tanzer, May 2018

Three years ago I had the good fortune to taste a complete set of Turley Wine Cellars’ Hayne Vineyard Petite Syrah, made from vines planted in 1953. This past March I followed up with a comprehensive look at Turley’s first—and arguably greatest—Zinfandel bottling, also from Hayne Vineyard, in this case from vines planted in 1903!

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Cellar Favorite: 1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet

featured, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, May 2018

The 1988 Montrachet was a stand out in a recent dinner that spanned 20+ vintages going all the way back to 1973. This is an especially fine example of a wine I have been fortunate to taste and drink many times over the years.

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Vinous Table: Stem, London, UK

United Kingdom, Vinous Table

Neal Martin, May 2018

There are parts of London that I know like the back of my hand. Hanover Square in salubrious Mayfair is one. I know every paving stone. I’m on first name terms with every grand oak that lines its garden. You see, I worked here for over a decade when I was a wine buyer. Wine-Journal was essentially born here. Perhaps I should use the past tense, because this Regency square is unrecognizable since we parted ways in 2006, entire buildings demolished or disemboweled to make way for the new Crossrail line. The only features extant since my days here are the trees and the waifs going in and out of the Vogue office. My old office in Mimosa House is now an art gallery and what was a branch of “Thai Square” has recently emerged as “Stem”. Stem is the third restaurant opening for Mark Jarvis following the much-lauded “Anglo” in Clerkenwell and “Neo Bistro” (also in Mayfair). On this showing, just days after its soft launch, “Stem” might well be the best.

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Beyond Wine: Album Review of Dirty Computer – Janelle Monáe

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, May 2018

Back in 2010 I saw Janelle Monáe at an intimate gig in Camden, London. The Archandroid, her debut album, had just been released to ecstatic reviews. To this day I regard it as a classic, a dizzying smorgasbord of musical genres crammed into an epic concept album. I was convinced that Monáe was up there with the greats, not least alongside her obvious muse, Prince.

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Friuli Venezia Giulia: A Wine Smorgasbord

featured, Italy: North

Ian D'Agata, May 2018

No other region in Italy offers as large a selection of outstanding white wines from so many different grape varieties as Friuli Venezia Giulia does, while the region’s native red grapes yield wines that are equally distinctive.

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Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015

featured, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, May 2018

Over the last twenty years La Conseillante has emerged as one of the finest properties in Pomerol. In this latest in-depth château profile, I recount La Conseillante’s history from the 18th century to the present day, the vineyard and current viticultural techniques practiced by winemaker Marielle Cazaux, reviews of the last 20 vintages, plus additional mature bottles back to the 1960s and also ask whether La Conseillante’s purple design is their tribute to the late pop star, Prince.