2010 Riesling Furstentum Grand Cru
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Maurice Barthelme of Albert Mann, who is responsible for the viticulture here while his brother Jacky handles winemaking, told me that 2010 is a great vintage for pinot noir owing to the concentration of acidity and fruit, but that quality in general is all over the board. "It will prove a superlative vintage only for the best estates," he said. "The overall average won't be as high because many estates have made thin, high-acid wines. But the best wines will be memorable: there's a crystalline purity to them that is really rare." Mann also likes vintage 2011. "Considering that it was the driest vintage since 1900 in our immediate area, the wines are remarkably fresh and vibrant, and have a wonderfully soft, smooth mouthfeel." Curiously, Maurice had me start by tasting the pinot noirs first (and the higher-acid, leaner 2010s before the 2011s), in almost Burgundian fashion. Also recommended: 2010 Pinot Noir Clos de la Faille (86).