2002 Riesling Furstentum Grand Cru
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If there's a professional basketball player making better wines than Jacky Barthelme, I haven't met him (or her).Barthelme, a power forward for a local team, admitted to me that at age 39 he's more likely to set up six or seven meters from the basket than to bang bodies under the boards with today's younger and brawnier players.His wines, not surprisingly, are also suaver than ever before, though with no loss of concentration or strength.Once again, I tasted some of the finest gewurztraminers of my trip at this address, and the Barthelme brothers' late-harvest bottlings in general are often superlative.As a rule, the Barthelmes prefer to make late-harvest wines from earlier tries as the first pass through the vines normally brings purer botrytis flavors, before the influence of rain is felt.But in 2002, Jacky noted, there was a lot of rain in September and so much humidity in the second half of the summer "that we decided not to do a late harvest."Still, he added, concentration of sugars came quickly in the last days.Riesling yields were low and the gewurztraminer came in with thick skins and high sugars, with virtually no rot in the grand cru parcels.The Mann wines, at least in the U.S. market, are priced extremely gently for their high quality.