Better
Late Than Never:&nbsp;The 2022 Vintage in Washington State

&nbsp;BY ERIC GUIDO | DECEMBER 5, 2024The 2022 vintage will not soon be forgotten in Washington
State. A late season by every measure—flowering, veraison and harvest—the year
was also incredibly stressful for a variety of reasons. I visited the state in
early October of 2022, which typically would have been a horrible time for
winemakers to welcome me into their tasting rooms. While I was planning the
trip, several estates declined my appointment requests, assuming that they
would be neck-deep in harvest. However, when I arrived, I encountered winery
after winery waiting for their fruit to reach maturity on the vine. I found
cellars full of empty fermentation tanks, with cellar hands repeatedly
scrubbing and sanitizing machinery out of a combination of preparation and
boredom.&nbsp;Many producers had never encountered a vintage like 2022.
This is Washington State, where each season seems to be warmer than the
previous one. Most winemakers here have spent the majority of their careers
learning to deal with increasingly warm conditions, but this was something new.
Many compare 2022 to 2011, which is the coldest growing season on record, but this
was different. While 2022 started cold and wet, it was relatively warm through
July and August, and as October progressed, the state even enjoyed an Indian
summer. Anticipation was very high for what this relatively cool, extended
growing season could mean for the wines, but there was also anxiety in the air.
In the Pacific Northwest, the weather can go from sunny and warm to frost
conditions overnight. Nail biting persisted as producers tried to gauge
phenolic ripeness against the possibility of needing to pull in all of their
fruit at a moment’s notice. Moreover, yields were generally high, and many
worried about having the space to accommodate the fruit when it arrived at the
winery. As it happened, the weather held out, and I presumed that the 2022s would
be fascinating.&nbsp;&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1733411508544-Old+Vine+Merlot+at+the+Leonetti+Estate+in+OCtober+of+2022_copy.jpg">Old Vine Merlot at the Leonetti Estate in October of 2022Curiously, during my trip to the region this past October, I found something other than what I expected:&nbsp;inconsistency. One winemaker will tell you that Bordeaux varieties fared better than Rhône varieties, and the next will tell you the exact opposite. Some are honest about the challenges of the vintage, while others sugarcoat the situation. To be clear, 2022 is in no way a poor vintage, or a vintage to skip. I could easily rattle off 20 producers that excelled, compellingly marrying the season's conditions with the winemaker's style, but I also encountered several wines that pale in comparison to their usual selves.&nbsp;The wines are certainly more approachable than usual, generally elegant with soft tannins. The reality is that 2022 is a telling example of what the most talented winemakers and vineyard managers are capable of—wines that will make a fine addition to any vertical. It’s essential to dig deeper into the growing season to understand why this year didn’t uniformly yield the wines that both winemakers and I had hoped it would.The 2022 vintage began with a snowy winter and frigid
temperatures that lasted well into spring, coupled with regular precipitation.
Steve Robertson of Delmas explains, “There was so much water in the soil when
the vines woke up that if you were a producer that was irrigating, you were
over-hydrating. The canopies were massive across the Walla Walla Valley, as
were the berry and cluster sizes.” The cold spring conditions resulted in
uneven fruit setting and prolonged flowering. Spray applications were necessary
for dealing with mildew, and fruit set was abundant—the first real issue of
2022. Yields were much lower in 2020 and 2021. The 2020 vintage had problems
with smoke, with many wineries forced to dump or declassify wines. Extremely
warm and dry conditions in 2021 resulted in a 30% average reduction in
quantity, though I received reports of much higher. Pleased with the larger
yields of 2022, many growers let the fruit hang. Louis Skinner of Betz Winery comments,
“Two thousand twenty-two was a year where we couldn’t be on autopilot. A lot of
canopies needed to be repositioned or reduced, plus a larger crop…The only
option was to lower the yield.”



Stress
was high through the summer. Temperatures remained relatively normal, but the
late start to the season had already taken its toll. Veraison took place weeks
later than average. Worries set in about achieving phenolic ripeness before temperatures would naturally start
to drop in the fall. The region saw its typical cooldown in early September, but
very little fruit was ready for harvest. Winemaker Matías Kúsulas of Gard
Vintners explains, “Usually, the problem in Washington State is sugar
accumulation before phenolic ripeness, but that wasn’t an issue in 2022.” Fortunately,
an Indian summer settled in and lasted into October, with only a few rain events
and significant diurnal shifts of 40 to 50 degrees. The outlook suddenly seemed
much more positive, but the trick was timing harvest to achieve ripe tannins while
having ample resources to bring in an abundant amount of fruit in a compressed period
of time. In the end, many wineries harvested in the third week of October, with
one even reporting a final harvest on October 31.&nbsp;Wineries with estate
vineyards or close relationships with growers had the best chances of success in
2022 because they retained the ability to harvest on their preferred schedule. Many
winemakers without access to estate vineyards who desired to pick at a precise time
could not do so because vineyard management teams had already scheduled other
wineries for that date.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1733412881616-Billo+Naravane+of+Rasa+Vineyards+and+Dossier+Wine+Collective_copy.jpg">Billo Naravane of Rasa Vineyards and Dossier Wine Collective So, what can readers expect from the 2022s? In the best
cases, they are more delicate than usual yet aromatic, elegant and
approachable. The wines are often lifted and graceful in feel, with soft, round
tannins that provide a good framework without diminishing length and youthful
appeal. However, some wines come across as diluted, superficial and
fruit-forward, lacking depth and concentration—likely resulting from larger
yields or a poorly timed harvest.Many winemakers in Washington explain that they are desert
farmers. We’ve witnessed their ability to excel in extremely hot and dry
vintages. Most of the Columbia Valley winegrowing region wouldn’t even exist without irrigation
from the Columbia River. The last cool and rainy vintage was more than ten years
ago (2011), so it’s easy to understand how difficult it must be for producers to
navigate a vintage like 2022. As I mentioned at the very beginning of this
report, the biggest problem in 2022 was inconsistency. From my tastings, I cannot
honestly say whether Rhône or Bordeaux varieties performed better. It’s more
nuanced than that. This is a producer-dependent year, and those winemakers and
vineyard managers who sacrificed yields and spent time manicuring their canopies
and vines found success. Those who got it right made spectacular wines, but
there is a considerable disparity between the best and the rest.







Better than Expected: Looking Back at 2021

I was
very impressed with the 2021s I tasted for this report. Tasting the 2021s next
to the 2022s is fascinating. The 2021s show much more substance, along with a
classic tannin profile and elevated acidity, which is the real saving grace of
this vintage. The heat dome in late June, during which temperatures soared to
118°F for four days, is the first thing producers note when discussing the 2021
growing season. Luckily, berries had yet to go through veraison at the time,
and the vines recovered exceptionally well in the aftermath. The heat dome was
not nearly as crucial of an event as many make it out to be regarding the
finished wines. The season remained very warm and dry through the summer, but a
fall cooldown allowed vines to find balance, retain acidity and deliver
extremely healthy fruit. The 2021s are simply stunning, especially from many of
the top producers. These wines are powerful yet racy and fresh, with depths of
primary fruit and the balance to promote cellaring for more than a decade.
What’s more, 2021 has what 2022 lacks: consistency. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1733412510624-Pinot+Noir+Clone+777+in+the+Bayernmoor+Cellars+Estate+Vineyard+with+the+Puget+Sound+AVA_copy.jpg">Pinot Noir Clone 777 in the Bayernmoor Cellars Estate Vineyard within the Puget Sound AVAA Note on Varieties



Last year, we published my report “<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/rhones-on-the-rise-washington-state-takes-the-lead-aug-2023">Rhônes
on the Rise: Washington State Takes the Lead.</a>” This article covered not
just Washington State AVAs but also The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater,
located on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley—one of the most exciting
pieces of terroir in the United States today. A year later, fresh from tasting,
I must reemphasize just how thrilling and significant the emergence of these
varieties is for Washington State. For decades, it was all about Bordeaux
blends, and the importance of those wines has not changed. However, collectors should
take note of the serious uptick in high-quality Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre,
Cinsault, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne and Clairette. Year after year, the
quality and complexity of these wines amazes me. This year in particular, I tasted
several white Rhônes from the WeatherEye vineyard on Red Mountain that genuinely
moved me, delivering at a higher level than I’ve experienced before. As for The
Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, things are moving fast as developers try to
secure vineyards and land for future projects. In addition to the construction
of new wineries, the town itself is starting to see growth in tourism. Now is
the time to explore and secure your place on the mailing lists of your favorite
producers.&nbsp;<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1733413211077-Todd+Alexander+has+his+finger+on+the+pulse+of+high-quality+winemaking+in+WA+State%2C+and+the+Rocks+District+of+Milton+Freewater_copy.jpg"></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote>Todd Alexander has his finger on the pulse of high-quality winemaking in Washington State and The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.I’ve also been very impressed by the increased production of
Cabernet Franc throughout the region. Washington State has a knack for finding
a blend of rich primary fruit and peppery, zesty Cabernet Franc character.
While I’m less excited by wines with a thick sheen of new oak, many winemakers
respect the variety's inherent qualities and allow them to shine. Additionally,
my recent tastings included some interesting Pinot Noirs from the Puget Sound
AVA. Pinot Noir from Washington State can be extremely fruit-forward and
lacking in nuance and complexity, but that is not the case here. Located at an
elevation of 700 feet on the western side of Washington State, the Puget Sound
AVA boasts sandy loam soils. This much cooler terroir yields Pinot Noirs of
lift and complexity. I’m excited to dig deeper into this category for future
reports.

Sadly, I’m seeing less and less of one of my favorite
Washington State darlings: Merlot. High-quality Merlot sets Washington State apart
from other domestic regions, so I’m hoping this is just a coincidence of
choice, as many wineries only show five or six wines and may choose not to
include Merlot. Look to the portfolios of Andrew Will Winery, DeLille Cellars,
Quilceda Creek, Betz Family Winery, Tenor and Leonetti for some seriously
noteworthy examples of the variety.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1733412757439-Washington+State+Cover_copy.jpg">The Figgins Estate Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley Ultimately, one of Washington's best attributes is its
ability to excel with an extensive array of grapes throughout its many diverse
growing areas, often while providing fantastic value. I urge curious readers to
explore the producers and wines profiled in this report.&nbsp;



I
tasted the wines for this report in Washington State in September 2024 and our
offices in New York City in October 2024.© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/washington-state-2021-and-2020-from-the-frying-pan-to-the-fire-jan-2024">Washington State 2021 and 2020: From the Frying Pan to the Fire</a>, Eric Guido, January 2024 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/rhones-on-the-rise-washington-state-takes-the-lead-aug-2023">Rhônes on the Rise: Washington State Takes the Lead</a>, Eric Guido, August 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/against-all-odds-washington-states-2020s-and-2019s-mar-2023">Against All Odds: Washington State’s 2020s and 2019s</a>, Eric Guido, March 2023

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