Washington State 2021 and 2020: From the Frying Pan to the Fire

BY ERIC GUIDO | JANUARY 25, 2024

Life as a Washington State winemaker is never dull these days. Over the last decade, a succession of warm vintages has forced vineyard managers and winemakers to rethink their approach. Yet, the overall quality of Washington State wine has never been higher. Wineries continue to open. New vineyards are planted and new AVAs are proposed, all while the state deals with a few of the most challenging vintages ever: the smoke-affected 2020s and now the hottest vintage on record in 2021. Yet when the dust settles and the wines are bottled, Washington State continues to endure. While there are plenty of exceptional wines in the market, collectors should be excited for the 2022s and, most likely, the 2023s.

Looking out across Red Mountian and the Yakima Valley.

This report looks primarily at the newly-released Bordeaux variety wines and a few timely updates from outside the category. To catch up on the Rhône wines, check out my last report, “Rhône’s on the Rise: Washington State Takes the Lead.”

My appreciation for Washington State runs deep. It only grows each time I taste these wines and spend time on the ground with producers. First and foremost, prices have increased, but the cost of a Washington Bordeaux blend remains a tremendous value compared to the likes of California and Sonoma. While some producers have begun to bridge this gap, the amount of world-class wine made in Washington at reasonable prices is astounding. Moreover, beyond the prestige wines, I’m often amazed by the level of quality found in some producers’ entry-level bottlings. Oftentimes, wineries release these offerings under a separate brand just to conserve the value of their primary portfolio. To list a few, in no specific order, Substance (House of Smith), Involuntary Commitment (Andrew Will), Secret Squirrel (Corliss), City Limits (Two Vintners) and M100 (Fidelitas) are all wines that I would welcome at my dinner table any night of the week. 

As for the style, another defining factor of Washington State is its love of blending. These are true Bordeaux blends, relying not just on Cabernet Sauvignon (although you can find many varietal examples) but also on Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and, a personal favorite of mine, Merlot. I know there is still a lot of misguided controversy over the latter, but the fact is that Washington State excels with Merlot. It’s the healthy addition within many blends that not only sets them apart but makes them shine. 

Red Mountain as seen from the Upchurch Vineyard.