2011 Blaufränkisch Ungerberg

As Paul Achs was doing a presentation abroad the day I was in Gols, I had the opportunity to taste the current range of wines with his father, also named Paul. In his day, the estate produced mostly white wine. Today, the majority of their 25 hectares of vineyards are planted with red grape varieties, predominantly Blaufränkisch. Known for their small yields and elegant style, their wines are all about balance and drinkability. They can often be a touch austere in their youth, but they age remarkably well, as I saw again in my ten-years-after tasting of the 2003s. Interestingly, Achs compares 2012 with years like 2003 or 2000, which were hot and dry. But his favorite vintages are more classic years like 2011, 2008 and 2004.

Before Paul Achs returned home from California in 1991, this estate produced essentially only white wine. Today, his 24 hectares of vineyard are planted almost exclusively with red grape varieties. Known for his small yields and elegant--some would say feminine--style, his wines are all about balance and drinkability. That said, they can be a touch austere in their youth. While I have long been an admirer of his pinot noir, the Blaufränkisch Spiegel is my call for the finest wine in this year's collection. (www.paul-achs.at) Also recommended: 2012 Chardonnay (87), 2011 Pannobile White (89), 2012 Zweigelt (86), 2012 Zweigelt Alte Reben (87), 2012 Blaufrankisch Heidboden (87), 2011 Blaufrankisch Edelgrund (89), 2011 St. Laurent Goldberg (89), 2011 Pinot Noir (89).