2000 Riesling Smaragd Klaus
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Hans Altmann met with variable results this year. I found several of his gruner veltliner bottlings as well as the riesling Federspiels texturally rough and warm. But the wines that worked could be impressive. I was disarmed by Jamek's smoky, spicy, black fruit-filled zweigelt, from the high-altitude Postaler vineyard. Among the most naturally polished and well-balanced reds I have tasted in Austria, this (1 star) wine was modest only in the lack of pretension with which it was vinified and presented by Altmann.
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