2019 Chardonnay The North Slope Vineyard
United States
Russian River Valley
Sonoma
White
Chardonnay
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2022 - 2034
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There is no getting around the fact that 2020 was a very difficult year for Hansel. The wines don’t show taint, but they fall into the category of wines affected by uneven ripening, which is evident throughout the range. Stephen Hansel opted to use less new oak in order to not mark the wines and also chose to bottle earlier than normal to preserve freshness. Those decisions might partly explain why these wines are angular today, but my impression is that most of it comes down to very challenging conditions, especially at the end of the growing season.
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2023 - 2039
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Once again, Stephen Hansel turned out a set of highly attractive wines. The cool growing season of 2019 decidedly favors Chardonnay. A number of the wines are really impressive. The best wines in the lineup offer a combination of Russian River texture and vibrancy that is compelling. Things were a bit more challenging for the Pinots, which are lighter and more translucent than readers are likely to expect. That’s not a bad thing necessarily given the exuberance that comes so naturally here, but a signature of the year in Pinot Noir that readers will want to keep in mind. Overall, the 2019 Pinots are nervy and lack the volume of the very finest years. The North Slope Pinot is especially awkward, at least today.
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