2014 Chardonnay The North Slope Vineyard

Two thousand fifteen is without question a Pinot Noir year at Hansel. The Pinots are deep, sumptuous and head-spinning in their beauty. Freakishly low yields resulted in Chardonnays that are quite intense, but also less differentiated than they are in less extreme vintages. Stephen Hansel remains one of the most down to earth producers in Sonoma and California more broadly. A commitment to delivering high quality and fair prices makes Walter Hansel one of the most consumer-friendly wineries in Sonoma. The Chardonnays and Pinots are both done in a classic, middle of the road style that captures tons of Russian River exuberance.

It is so refreshing to taste with proprietor Stephen Hansel. At a time when so many of the world's best wines are increasingly unaffordable for the normal consumer, Hansel has kept his prices decidedly reasonable. As I have written before, Hansel's wines epitomize what the Russian River does so well; namely rich, butter Chardonnays and forward, juicy Pinots. Hansel reports that his vines set a very large crop in 2014, so he reduced yields by 20-30% for Chardonnays and as much as 60% for the Pinots. The results are in the glass, especially in 2014, which is so strong for Pinot. Hansel captured every bit of that magic with a range of striking Pinots that are among the best I have ever tasted here. During my January trip I also enjoyed a delicious meal at the Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro, a California version of a classic French bistro. The food was delicious, but more than the cooking I was struck by an old-fashioned sense of warmth and hospitality that I have not seen in a restaurant in a very long time. Everything about Walter Hansel Winery speaks to class.