2007 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Auslese

After the stunning 2005 collection, the 2006s from von Othegraven were rather sober. They have depth, but less of the elegance that I usually associate with the Saar. Although a couple of the current releases show glimpses of the old character, 2007 is much in the same vein-and far from the halcyon days when this was perhaps the best estate in the region. That said, Dr. Heide Kegel is obviously breathing fresh life into a renaissance that will need another few years to complete. When it does, though, the Altenberg, the top site in Kanzem, might again be mentioned in the same breath with Scharzhofberg. (Terry Theise Estate Selections) Also recommended: 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett (86), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (87), 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese (87), 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (87), 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95). Other wines tasted: 2007 Riesling Trocken, 2007 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, 2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling.