2003 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Girardin, who is down to seven or eight red wine cuvees in 2004, describes the new vintage as a very good year for chardonnay: "pure, fruity and easily digestible. The interest of 2004 is in its freshness. The wines should be drunk on the young side, the premier crus starting after two years." Girardin fermented a bit warmer than usual (he thought his 2003s were a bit slight from fermenting too cool), did virtually no debourbage and then did not stir the lees. At the end of May, Girardin's 2004s showed a captivating combination of succulent acidity and creamy, layered fruit. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Girardin cut his use of new oak drastically in 2003, to no more than 10% for most of his cuvees relying instead on a high percentage of 2002 barrels. All of the 2003s were acidified in cuve Girardin reported, and he will adjust them again if he feels they need it. A few of the malolactic fermentations were blocked, "if they did not take place early, with the rest of the wines. "Girardin told me he produced just 25 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2003, or about half a normal harvest. He started picking on August 24, two days after a rain shower which he feels "de-stressed the vines without lowering acidity levels. Before the rain there was less ripeness and less acidity. "Ultimately, the fruit came in with potential alcohol in the very high 14% to 14. 5% range, although Girardin noted that "the greater the soil, the less surmuri character the wines show. "Girardin expressed the opinion that the vines of Puligny-Montrachet were slightly favored in 2003, as there was a bit more rain here in the spring. The 2003s had not yet been racked at the time of my visit; Girardin planned to assemble them in August. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham AL numerous Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, Charlotte NC