2001 Riesling Saar

Roman Niewodniczanski, heir to the Bitburger Beer fortune, is one of the mostx000D refreshing new breezes lately blowing across the Saar.x000D He believes in the power of old vines, lowx000D yields, traditional wooden casks, ambient yeasts and bottle aging, as well asx000D in a cadre of Wiltingen vineyards. Somex000D of these vineyards have been for generations part of the Van Volxem estate thatx000D he recently purchased, others newly acquired - many of which had enormousx000D reputations in the 19th century and have been largely neglected since.x000D "I'm in a position to benefit fromx000D depressed land prices and a crisis in the region," says the newly minted,x000D 33-year-old vintner, "although some people think I'm crazy."x000D Virtually all of his wines come from veryx000D ripe but healthy fruit and weigh in at between 8 and 18 grams of residualx000D sugar, reflecting, Niewodniczanski believes, a traditional if largely abandonedx000D Saar style. He wants to direct hisx000D customers away from a typical German fixation on residual sugar or its absencex000D and toward the appreciation of balanced, food-friendly wines and individualterroirs.x000D There are no designations of Pradikat onx000D these labels except in special circumstances, such as an Eiswein and onex000D unabashedly sweet Scharzhofberger Spatlese crafted largely for the Americanx000D market (see below), as well as two rich, nobly sweet Auslesen which I did notx000D taste. (Terry Theise)Also recommended: 2001x000D Weissburgunder, 2001 Wiltinger Kupp Riesling.