2019 Blanc de Blancs Charles Heintz Vineyard

Ultramarine represents the cutting edge in sparkling wine production in the United States. Michael Cruse sources fruit from some of the most elite sites in Sonoma County for a range of single-vineyard, single-vintage, single-variety sparkling wines that present a distinctly Californian version of artisan grower Champagnes that are made with a similar spirit. The wines are fermented in barrel, aged on their lees for a few years and bottled with no dosage. Cruse pushes the edges, sometimes a bit too far, as seen in the Blanc de Blancs Michael Mara, which I find strident. At the same time, taking risks is the only way to innovate and grow over the long term. The finest Ultramarine wines are defined by extraordinary precision and electric tension, qualities these wines have in spades.