2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2020 vintage is, without a doubt, a mixed year, where readers must look to individual producers instead of the region or specific locations. It’s apparent that Castelnuovo dell’Abate had an edge if the proper time and effort were put into managing the vineyards. Andrea Cortonesi (of Uccelliera and Voliero) is a perfect example—both of these Brunellos are wildly successful in 2020. Cortonesi explains, “Working in the vineyards on a daily basis was most important. In a vintage like 2020, it’s crucial to monitor each individual vine with proper canopy management and control the yields.” It also helped that the southeast enjoyed an extended cooldown and a good amount of rain leading up to harvest. Cortonesi was able to push harvest to September 25. He recalls that the fruit had a slightly overripe character, but that it achieved perfectly ripe tannins. Cortonesi’s use of cryomaceration and dry ice also helped to maintain freshness in the wines. The results are fantastic, showing exceptional elegance, balanced structure and the potential to mature beautifully in the cellar. There will be no Riserva in 2020 because Uccelliera focused on bolstering their Brunello, but the 2019 Riserva is simply spellbinding.

The 2020 vintage is, without a doubt, a mixed year, where readers must look to individual producers instead of the region or specific locations. It’s apparent that Castelnuovo dell’Abate had an edge if the proper time and effort were put into managing the vineyards. Andrea Cortonesi (of Uccelliera and Voliero) is a perfect example—both of these Brunellos are wildly successful in 2020. Cortonesi explains, “Working in the vineyards on a daily basis was most important. In a vintage like 2020, it’s crucial to monitor each individual vine with proper canopy management and control the yields.” It also helped that the southeast enjoyed an extended cooldown and a good amount of rain leading up to harvest. Cortonesi was able to push harvest to September 25. He recalls that the fruit had a slightly overripe character, but that it achieved perfectly ripe tannins. Cortonesi’s use of cryomaceration and dry ice also helped to maintain freshness in the wines. The results are fantastic, showing exceptional elegance, balanced structure and the potential to mature beautifully in the cellar. There will be no Riserva in 2020 because Uccelliera focused on bolstering their Brunello, but the 2019 Riserva is simply spellbinding.

To truly understand the wines of Uccelliera, it's important to consider owner and winemaker Andrea Cortonesi’s inspiration. Cortonesi aims to create a pure style of Castelnuovo dell’Abate terroir, taking advantage of vineyards from its lowest to its highest elevations. From 160 meters, with calcareous-compact clay soils, to 440 meters with sandstone shist. The Brunello at Uccelliera embodies Castelnuovo dell’Abate’s terroir. Cortonesi is also a master of oak integration, maturing the wines in a combination of large Slavonian oak and French barrique, with an equal blend of 1st and 2nd passage, for three years. The end result is a wine of richness and power but also complexity and refinement, which is perfectly displayed in the new 2019s. This year, I was able to taste both the Brunello and get a sample of the Riserva from barrel. The Riserva specifically receives a larger amount of fruit from Uccelliera’s higher-elevation vineyards. Both wines are stunning, yet also in need of cellaring. Having tasted them next to the radiant 2016, it's easy to connect the dots between the qualities and similarities of the two years.