2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

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2024 - 2032

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If it’s true that Southern Montalcino fared better than the North in 2004, the 2004 Uccelliera certainly illustrates that point. The Brunello outperforms the Riserva by a hair, yet that’s more about stylistic preferences. The Riserva leans into its new oak regimen yet in a balanced way. This was also the first vintage that blended parcels from the highest to the lowest elevations of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Following 2004, Andrea Cortonesi began using temperature-controlled stainless steel for fermentations and cryomaceration under dry ice to add freshness to his wines. That said, the 2004s do not lack freshness.

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2016 - 2022

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I have had mixed experience with Andrea Cortonesi's Brunellos as they age. The relatively high exposure to air that comes with a preference for a high percentage of new French oak gives these wines notable richness and lushness when they are young, but over time, the wines tend to mature faster than many others, especially if they aren't stored perfectly. I found these wines, tasted from my cellar, all fresher than the same wines I tasted at the estate. At their best, the Uccelliera Brunellos are rich, earthy and savory wines that capture the inherent power of Castelnuovo dell'Abate and the southern side of Montalcino.

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2013 - 2024

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I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Uccelliera this year. Proprietor Andrea Cortonesi showed me the entirety of his Brunellos in cask, which provided fascinating insights into the evolution of this small, family-run property. To be honest, I had never been a huge fan of Cortonesi's Brunellos until the 2004 vintage as I often found the wines excessively heavy. Not coincidentally, 2004 is the first year Cortonesi worked with lower temperatures in fermentation which resulted in wines of superb elegance and delineation. Uccelliera is now without question one of the handful of top producers in Montalcino.

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