2005 Millésimé

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2013 - 2020

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Taittinger seems to be on a huge tear of late. The wines have never been better. Of course, the Taittinger is best known for their tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne, but over the last year or two I have seen a significant improvement in the entry-level wines. Later in 2013 Taittinger will add an ID code to their back labels that will allow consumers to learn more about the makeup of the NV Champagnes (including the base vintage), a great move in my opinion. I would be remiss if I didn't take a moment to comment on the last two wines I tasted during my March visit. The first was the 1989 Comtes de Champagne (original release), a vintage that was generally overlooked in favor of 1988 and 1990. I always encourage readers to buy the producer first and the vintage second. This bottle was a perfect example of why that is a smart approach. Today, the 1989 Comtes is marvelously complete and totally striking. I would be thrilled to own it! The second bottle was also 1989 Comtes, but disgorged à la volée, which means with no dosage. It has become fashionable in some circles to insist that lower dosage is better. Not so. Taste can be the only guide. Judicious winemakers know sugar is a preservative and hopefully have the experience to make the right decisions. In this case, the original release was stunning, the a la vole disgorgement was harsh and difficult to enjoy, despite the obvious pedigree of the wine. Dosage in the late 1980s was about 12-13 grams, I would say perfect for this wine.

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2013 - 2020

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Taittinger's 2002 Comtes de Champagne is the clear head of the class among the estate's new and upcoming releases. It is easily one of the very best Champagnes I have ever tasted, and simply a must-have wine.

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