2016 Weiss & Grauburgunder Quereinsteiger

Andreas Schmitges does a pretty sophisticated job of marketing his wines, as part of which he has long kept his portfolio slim, focused and consistent from year to year (except, of course, for nobly sweet wines or Eiswein, according to the vintage). But my late July 2017 visit here offered some fascinating novelties. One of these was a new and unusual cuvée, the first such, created by Andreas’ son Kilian. (Unfortunately, a rustically textured inaugural 2016 Schmitges Pinot Noir, from cask, was at once green and toasty.) Then came three new wines that Schmitges senior had announced in 2016: the same must, representing a single picking, was raised in stainless steel tank, in cask, and in a cylindrical receptacle made of granite (lid and all). Schmitges sold sets of these to his customers at a modest price on the condition that purchasers weigh in with their opinion as to the virtues, drawbacks and relative pleasure derived from each wine. Schmitges is dead serious about incorporating his customers’ advice into his future plans – though if he invests in additional granite “barrels” it will take quite a few vintages to amortize the cost! Harvest began in the first week of October 2016 and was finished by month’s end. “Must weights were modest and with few exceptions remained within a relatively narrow range,” noted Schmitges senior, “but taste-wise there was a lot of difference in ripeness depending on where and when you picked.” (For more about this estate, consult the introduction to my review of its 2014s.)