2023 Riesling Lieserer Niederberg Helden Auslese

The Schloss Lieser brilliance was on full display during this tasting, conducted by Lara Haag and her parents, Ute and Thomas Haag. The dry GGs have the same luminosity as the off-dry and sweet wines, which are full of life. “Two thousand twenty-three was initially a little cooler, and until May, things lagged a little,” Lara Haag recounts. “Then summer came with high temperatures and stayed until August when it cooled down, all in all, a lovely contrast.” Haag emphasizes that 2023 held both rain and sunshine, “But in 2023, the rain came when you needed it.” She concedes that this required much sorting in the vineyard, with around 25% of fruit discarded due to rot—a lesser problem in 2023 because fruit set had been good. It was so good, in fact, that grapes were crowded on the bunch, making them more susceptible to rot. Haag notes that the ferments were easy and that the water availability of 2023 resulted in good dry extract. The harvest itself, starting in late September and lasting five weeks, was a challenge. Thomas Haag notes that it demanded much time and concentration, as every bunch needed to be inspected and sniffed—good and bad rot became harder and harder to differentiate. The sorting effort paid off since dry wines, Kabinette, Spätlesen and Auslesen could be harvested—the latter with Goldkapsel and long Goldkapsel. These are wines of complete purity.