2022 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico

Sartarelli remains one of the region’s shining stars, with a portfolio focused on terroir and purity above all else. It’s amazing to think about the level of depth and complexity that this family is able to cull from the variety, all while using stainless steel as their primary aging vessel. Tommaso Sartarelli works with a diverse selection of vineyards and multiple terroirs from throughout the Jesi region, which the family has cultivated with care for generations. The entry-level Verdicchio is top-notch in its category, followed by the single-vintage Tralivio, adding tremendous depth without a gigantic leap in price. The Balciana continues to be one of the absolute top wines in the region. Its depth, complexity and balance result in a wine that impresses upon release and can also age for up to a decade or more. I’m still enjoying the 2014 from my own cellar. The Sartarelli family has also added a Riserva to the lineup, the Milletta. It’s sourced from a distinct east- to southeast-facing vineyard planted in 2004 at 210 meters of elevation in soils of 40% clay, 30% silt and 20% sand, and it spends about eight months maturing on the lees. The 2021 is just the second vintage of this wine, and it’s already competing for top placement in the portfolio.