2004 Percarlo

This complete vertical of San Giusto a Rentennano’s flagship Sangiovese Percarlo left me speechless. Brothers Luca and Francesco Martini di Cigala showed me every vintage of Percarlo, back to the inaugural 1983, a wine that has now run its full course. I was deeply struck by the consistency of the wines from year to year, and even more importantly, by the great showing of a number of wines from long forgotten harvests, proving yet again the importance of choosing producer over vintage.

Percarlo started off as a selection of the estate’s best vineyards. In 2001 the Martini di Cigalas moved to a bunch-by-bunch selection across all of the fruit that comes into the winery, an approach they favor because of the huge inconsistency Sangiovese often shows from vine to vine, and even within the same cluster. I also tasted a few vintages of the Chianti Classico Le Baroncole, the top Sangiovese bottling made in years not deemed suitable for Percarlo. Readers who want to learn more about San Giusto and Percarlo may want to take a look at my recent video interview with proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala.

San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best vineyards in Gaiole

2. A powerful, intense expression of Sangiovese


3. Remarkably consistent, even in lesser years


4. Aging potential: 20+ years

What a pleasure it is to taste these new releases from San Giusto a Rentennano. Soft-spoken proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala is one of the humblest producers in Chianti Classico yet he routinely turns out deeply expressive, reference-point wines. The estate's 31 hectares of vineyards are planted on two distinct soil types. The first is composed of a sandy, marly mixture rich with rocks that reaches 4-5 meters in depth before reaching a bed of clay. Most of the fruit for the estate's signature wine, Percarlo, comes from this terroir. The second soil type is richer in clay and lies on a shallower foundation. Beginning in 2003 the estate has made some important changes in vineyard management, most notably in the Merlot plots that are used for La Ricolma. Martini favors a gradual approach to ripening that allows him to increase hang-time and harvest fairly late. By changing the timing of green harvests and leaving more leaf cover he is aiming to keep the vineyards as fresh as possible in order to delay the ripening of the typically precocious Merlot. Of course, much of that work was for naught in the torrid 2003 vintage, but in 2004 he has produced a wine that captures the essence of varietal wedded to an unmistakably Tuscan character. The estate favors small French oak barrels for its top bottlings, Percarlo and La Ricolma, both of which see about 50% new oak. The wines are made with the services of consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli whose transparent hand places him among the country's elite winemakers. As was the case throughout the region the 2003 harvest took place about three weeks earlier than usual. “Typically it takes us two weeks to harvest everything, but in 2003 there wasn't much fruit so we were able to get everything in the cellar in a week,” says Martini. “In 2004 we had completely different conditions. The weather was much more balanced, and we had the cool nights that are essential to for gradual ripening. That said, we also faced some challenges. We had some rain in August and that caused the berries to bloat a little, so we carried out a strict selection in the vineyards. In the cellar we performed a series of salassi (saignées) to restore the skin to liquid balance we look for. The wines have excellent minerality and acidity which should allow them to age well. For us I think 2004 is superior to 2001. Of course, its only over time that we understand how vintages age, and I am convinced that we all still have much to learn. I often find that the ‘great' vintages are those that often don't live up to expectations while the ‘smaller' vintages often turn out better than most people expect.” Readers who want to explore the finest Tuscany has to offer should make a note to check out this outstanding set of wines from San Giusto a Rentennano. While not inexpensive, in today's market these wines offer incredible value for the money.