2017 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti

This is an intriguing set of new releases from Alfredo and Luca Roagna. Most of the Barbarescos and Barolos are from 2017, a year with heat and drought that yielded wines with less depth and structure than is typically the case in more favorable vintages. Vineyard signatures aren’t quite as delineated as they can be, but that is also to be expected. Readers will note the addition of a new wine, a Riserva of Crichët Pajè. Other than that, things are pretty much the same as always. Long macerations, extended time in barrel and a generally hands off approach in both the vineyards and cellar are the rules. Time always feels like it slows down here. That’s exactly what wines feel like. I tasted through the range twice: once in September just after bottling and then again about two months later.