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Luca Roagna showed me a vast number of wines from his ever-growing lineup. Readers will want to note the first vintage of a new Barolo from Rocche di Castiglione that is made from a parcel adjacent to the family’s Cascina Pira. I tasted through all the wines twice, once in September and second time in October. The 2016s are potent, austere wines that will require a number of years to come around. I imagine the style of the year will thrill Roagna fans, but readers should be warned: these taut, massively tannic wines are not for the uninitiated. The 2013 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè and 2006 Barolo Pira Riserva Black Label are superb choices for Roagna fans who want something to drink now, but they also require a certain budget.
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