2011 Riesling Loibenberg

Although this estate is located in Krems, most of its finest vineyards, including the Loibenberg and Süssenberg, are in the Wachau. That should come as no surprise to anyone who knows Rainer Wess, who was the managing director of the dominant co-operative there before setting up his own business in 2003. Reflecting his concern about drinkablility, even his crus seldom surpass 13.5% alcohol. His marketing, although modern, is equally discreet, with only three small triangles on the label, which are gold when representing his first-growth sites. While I have always had a preference for his Loibenberg among the grüner veltliners, I prefer the pithy, herbal style of the Pfaffenberg for riesling. (weingut-wess.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner (86), 2012 Riesling (86), 2011 Riesling Sussenberg (87), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Sussenberg (87).