2003 Riesling Loibenberg
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Former Freie Weingartner director Rainer Wess has set up shop in Loiben's picturesque old Kellergasse and has turned out a satisfying inaugural collection from purchased fruit. "I want healthy grapes," Wess informed his growers, most of whom he knows well. "No 'good' botrytis, only clean grapes. " The levels of acidity are strikingly low even on riesling, but pHs were in the safety zone so Wess elected not to add acid and the wines are not deficient in juiciness or refreshment. He borrowed a refrigerated meat wagon to cool his grapes before pressing, and in general took great precautions for gentle handling that have paid off in some wines of clear fruit and surface polish that offer excellent value. (Vin Divino) Also recommended: 2003 Gruner Veltliner Pfaffenberg, 2003 Gruner Veltliner Loibenberg,2003 Riesling.
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