2009 Syrah (Central Coast)

Bob Lindquist's new lineup includes the first releases from his own 80-acre biodynamic vineyard in the Edna Valley, Sawyer Lindquist, which he planted in 2005 to grenache, syrah, tempranillo and albarino. (The Spanish grapes are slated for the Verdad wines made by Lindquist's wife Louise.) The Qupe wines are rarely flashy on release but they have a solid track record for aging along a slow curve. Lindquist, who started Qupe in 1982, told me that he's more convinced than ever that "careful vineyard work and not letting the sugars run away are the keys to making wines that develop slowly and smoothly." He went on: "Superripeness makes for easy and immediate appeal, but those are also the wines that show their alcohol and porty character in a few years. It's fine if you want to drink them right when they're released, but that's not my style."