2007 Barbaresco Riserva Pora

Commercial director Aldo Vacca described 2008 as "our vintage of the decade, combining elegance, power and depth," but I focused on the 2007 crus during my visit to this topnotch cooperative, as the 2008s were still in barrel. When the Produttori decides whether or not to bottle its multiple crus, it's a function of both vintage quality and economic conditions. The 2006s were vinified separately but then blended into a single Barbaresco bottling, at a financial sacrifice to the co-op of about 40%. "We didn't think the wines showed enough personality and differences between the vineyards," Vacca told me. "And the 2006s had some extra tannic grip due to heat during the summer and harvest." The 2007s, he went on, are fleshy, easygoing wines from a longer and mostly dry growing season. "Thanks to good luminosity, the leaves worked all summer long, and the wines have sweet, ripe tannins." As to earlier vintages, Vacca noted that "two thousand six is better in Barolo, where they enjoyed cooler conditions during the harvest, while in 2005 Barbaresco escaped the rain that caught the late pickers in Barolo. Two thousand seven was good for everyone." The 2007 crus, aged for 15 to 18 months in 25-hectoliters barrels, then another 15 months in older 75-hectoliter Slavonian casks, were racked just twice during their elevage and were bottled in June and July of this year.

Aldo Vacca describes 2007 as a perfect vintage in terms of the weather. The key event in Vacca's view was the unsually dry and warm winter, which caused vines to flower two weeks ahead of schedule. The rest of the year was marked by warm but not excessively hot temperatures. According to Vacca the vines were never stressed, the leaves were healthy and photosynthesis was very efficient. Vacca commented that evening temperatures were only modestly warm during the summer, such that it was possible to dine outdoors throughout the summer, which is quite unusual in Barbaresco, where temperatures tend to spike at some point(s) during the season. September saw evening temperatures drop, which allowed for a leisurely harvest that took a full 20 days, long by the winery's standards. Temperatures were warm during the days, and cool at night, ideal conditions for Nebbiolo. The harvest was early, but the length of the growing seasons was quite normal. Although Vacca describes 2007 as a perfect year he adds that personally he prefers 2005 and 2008, both of which he describes as more ‘classic' because of their youthful austerity. “Then again, I like my espresso black,” Vacca adds.

The 2007 Riservas saw a lengthy period of four or more weeks on the skins. The wines spent a total of three years in oak, the first year in 25-35hl casks, an additional 12-18 months in larger 50-75 hl casks, and a final 6-12 months back in the smaller casks. When the 2007 Riservas were younger, the personality of the vintage was quite apparent, but as the wines have aged the site specificity of these great vineyards has begun to emerge. The 2007 Riservas are big wines that should drink well upon release, but they also appear to have enough structure to develop beautifully in the cellar.