2001 Barbaresco Riserva Pora
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My Piedmont tour this fall was ill-timed when it came to the Barbarescos of this superb co-operative, as the Produttori's 2001s were released last year and the 2004s, of which I tasted a selection, won't be bottled until next spring (there were no cru bottlings here in 2003 or 2002). But the 2001s noted below are still widely available at the retail level, and a number of them are classic examples of traditional Barbaresco at relatively reasonable prices. Commercial director Aldo Vacca describes the 2004s as wines with less body and more acidity than the 2001s. "They're more like the 1999s; they seem brighter and tighter today," he explained. "The 2001s combine all the elements of top Barbaresco, like the 1990s. You feel the ripeness in 2001. In comparison, the '99s are sharper wines with more tension. " Vacca noted that the members of the co-op now deliver 10% less fruit than the maximum allowable yields, and that although the Produttori essentially pays on the basis of grape sugars, it has amended its formula since 2003 to pay a bonus for fruit with better "color intensity and phenolic quantity. "
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