2010 Brunello di Montalcino

I was quite impressed with the wines I tasted at Poggio di Sotto this year. Quite understandably, it took the team some time to get settled in, and things appear steadier here than they have at other moments in the recent past. Then again, proprietor Claudio Tipa can count on the services of winemaker Federico Staderini, who worked here under the direction of Giulio Gambelli until Gambelli's passing in 2012. Staderini describes 2012 as a vintage that was dry and hot throughout the entire year, which gave the plants time to adjust, while 2011 was marked by a severe and unexpected heat wave the second half of August after a relatively cool summer, a far greater shock to the vines. In 2010, the grapes struggled to ripen and were brought in between September 26 and October 4, a good ten days later than normal. I have to admit, it was fascinating to hear Staderini describe the constant struggle at Poggio di Sotto between his mentor, Giulio Gambelli, who always wanted to harvest late and former proprietor Piero Palmucci, who advocated picking early. I bet those were interesting conversations! Poggio di Sotto plans to release a 2010 Brunello Riserva, which I tasted from cask, as well as Riserva in 2011, one of very few estates to make that decision. At times, both the Rosso and Brunellos can show elevated volatile acidities, but history has shown the wines develop beautifully in bottle.