2006 Riesling Oestricher Lenchen Auslese
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Peter Jakob Kuhn, always obsessed with quality, marches to a different drum. His vineyards, which have always been impeccably maintained, have also been certified as organic since 2004. His wild yeast fermentations have found both avid followers and ardent detractors. He merely shrugs his shoulders and says that he is making wines that will age well. My concern has been more that his capricious changes in style have been difficult to follow. His 2006s were a mixed lot. Some, surprisingly for this tricky vintage, were better than he produced last year, others less. And the red wines raised question marks. (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY) Also recommended: 2006 Riesling Trocken (85), 2006 Oestricher Riesling Trocken (86), 2006 Riesling Quarzit Trocken ** (87), 2006 Riesling Trocken Landgeflecht (87), 2006 Riesling Classic (86), 2006 Mitteleheimer St. Nikolaus Riesling Auslese (90), 2006 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Beerenauslese (91). Other wines tasted: 2006 Riesling vom Riedel, 2005 Pinot Noir Barrique.
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