1999 Pavie
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé "A"
Bordeaux
Red
51% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon (2023 vintage)
00
2019 - 2032
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Pavie is one of St. Emilion's great hillside sites, but had been underperforming for years until the estate was purchased by Gerard Perse in March of '98, following his purchases of Pavie-Decesse and La Clusiere. Perse has completed construction of a splendid, distinctly wine-friendly fermentation facility and aging cellar at Pavie in which the wine is never pumped. (Previously the wines were made in huge tanks without the benefit of temperature control and aged in rather dank caves cut into the limestone hillside.) In this age of TCA awareness, not a wood surface is to be found in the aging cellar, except, of course, for the 100% new barrels: the walls are chalk and stone and the floor is granite. If I were a wine, I'd very much like to grow up in Perse's mood-enhancing new facility, which benefits from sexy lighting, soothing music and state-of-the-art air renewal. The grapes are brought in in 20-kilogram baskets and sorted on two tables de trie. The sorted berries then go up to the tanks via conveyor belt, where a week-long cold maceration takes place before the onset of fermentation. (A movable crusher lightly crushes the grapes before they go into the tank.) The '99 spent nearly six weeks on its skins, including a further three weeks of maceration after the fermentation finished. The '99 was still on its lees at the beginning of April; the '98 remained on its lees until June of '99. The wines are aged in 100% new barrels from five coopers; the barrels are toasted with embers and air-dried for 30 months. The wines of Perse (Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, La Clusiere and Monbousquet) and his partner Alain Raynaud (Quinault) are among the handful of right-bank wines that may be even stronger in '99 than in '98, in large part due to the severe green harvest that was carried out in '99. The '99s, says Perse, generally possess bigger structures than the '98s, and they may also have more stuffing. The '98s show more influence of the new oak, possibly because they were made in all-new oak fermentation vats. (See notes on Chateaux Quinault, Monbousquet, Pavie-Decesse and La Clusiere elsewhere in this section.)
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